September 29, 2017
I’m a wargame butterfly. Recently I got up a nice head of steam and painted up a bunch of Afrika Korps infantry. Then I found Nazgul well suited for my LotR 1/72 scale project so just HAD to stop and paint then. I am trying to get refocused on WW2 but Lord of the Rings (maybe it is the call of the Witch-King) is holding me back. The sad part is, somehow I am feeling the draw of the Horse and Musket era too.
Someone inquired about the 2 AB41 scout cars on my paint table. It at least prompted me to maybe give them the paint job they deserve. They are nice models after all. Well, at breakfast, I thought I’d clean up the tiny bulges you sometimes get with resin models. I found out the hard way that the wheels were not molded on but glued on. Pop went he wheel. Stab went the knife into my thumb. To make matters worse, I could not find the wheel anywhere on the floor. My daughter is home sick so I told her she could find the wheel if she was up to it. She pointed down on the floor, “You mean that wheel?” Crisis averted.
There are fan made rules for playing Frostgrave same side which suits my son fine. He can’t seem to do well when he fights me. I am using good old tactics. I hit/neutralize targets that are imminent threats and then focus firepower on other targets or destroy the ones that have been neutralized. It’s not really different from modern infantry tactics. Anyway, I told him about playing same side games. He also has an interest in LotR as we just finished up the trilogy of movies recently. So Frostgrave already has behavior rules for monsters and the rules for solo play require that you spawn monsters randomly around the board 2 at a time. It should make for some challenging “chase” style scenarios. We can pick up loot along the way.
I’ve been a good boy except for adding the odd figures that are needed to round out a project. The lead pile never seems to shrink. I’ve been stricken with the fever that most miniatures gamers get, buying the the latest shiny objects or starting a new project because it looks “cool.” I have not started a new project in years. I have several stalled projects though. Well maybe not stalled. Just temporarily halted while I vacillate between them all. Slow and steady I suppose.
September 28, 2017
In just two days, maybe 4 hours of work, the Nazgul are done. I painted them in shifts, the foot first, the mounted second and the fell beast with rider third. All were primed black followed by a coat of black paint and a light dry brushing of shadow gray. Te metal parts are iron silver and the bones are bleached bone.
Nazgul mounted give chase. The front figure is a Witch King figure.
Frankie the Frank is going to have a tough time with this guy.
A scene from Weathertop? Nazgul attack the Hobbits near an old ruin.
It was an excellent find for me really and I am quite pleased with the figures. $30 or so is not “cheap” but these figures fill a necessary niche for LotR battles.
September 25, 2017
While browsing the “interwebs” for…well…anything, I stumbled upon a post about Black Raven Foundry wraiths and the lament that they were closer to 1/72 scale than 15mm. What’s this you say? The third picture in his post tells the whole story. The Germanic warrior is, according to PSR, is 24mm tall. So, last Thursday, I took a chance and made a purchase. One bag of wraiths and another bag with the fell beast and Witch-King was ordered. I figured the mounted and the witch king would size up too small. Boy how wrong I was.
A selection posed with a MiniArt Mounted germanic Warrior, a HaT Frankish warrior and a Caesar Miniatures adventurer knight.
Not exactly perfect but here is a look at the figures for scale.
I am quite happy with the footmen and their size. They are perhaps 23mm tall and seem to fit well with other figures. I am pleasantly surprised with the mounted and how good they look against the mounted warrior. Understand that MiniArt Germanic Warriors were a bit robust and slightly larger than the other 1/72 ranges. So, though the “nightmares” are slightly smaller, in all likelihood, they will match with many other ranges. I’d been looking for suitable wraith figures for my LotR collection. Those interested can find them here and here. A bag of each will run you about $30 with postage. Expected delivery in the US is probably about a week or less.
September 23, 2017
It’s funny how these models sometimes fight you all the way to completion. This was one of those models. I built one body only to find out how many mistakes I made and started over. I must have made 7 turrets before I found a design I was happy with. The paint is close but not exact. In real life, this model looks pretty good. Up close, it looks still a little rough. I am happy with the $3 investment for as many of these vehicles as I can build. I will be building two more for the 11th Hussars. No Caunter scheme. Just desert yellow.
Looking a little rough up close. One thing I will do is line wheels with a dark gray pen from now on.
Looks better from the rear but the black on the wheels really shows, errors and all
Overhead view showing off the Bren MG and Boys ATR.
September 23, 2017
Here are a couple of pictures of my first Rolls Royce Armored Car. the model is by Der Kampfflieger. The model came with the original turret. I had to design my own WW2 style turret. The ATR was scratch built. I used a Junior General ATR for the receiver and added a round Plastruct rod for the barrel. I used a thin strip of paper for the muzzle break. I will do the same for the Bren. I do have a few bren guns from Raventhorpe but compared to the ATR, the Bren gun barrels look massive.
Lots of edging still to be done. Won’t take long though.
Yep…filling some where the running board meets the fender. Pretty minor though.
I did have a tough time with the fender assembly. The way I thought they would be, the boards tapered out…which was wrong. They should be straight. I ended up cutting my first attempt away and did it again. The results were much better.
September 22, 2017
With the recent arrival or “Developing the Portable Wargame” I’ve been pondering exactly how to approach the rules. The game is fairly scale agnostic. I have all of these wonderful Rapid Fire! campaign books and not enough forces/terrain/table space to run any of them. Then it occurred to me that I could convert them to the PW. Each PW unit would equal 1 company in the RF organization. I thik I will have to add some more terrain boards. A battalion will be something like 5-6 stands which, on my small board, will just work. Multiple battalion battlegroups? Not so much.
My son and I have started our 3rd full Frostgrave game. I said “full” because our first couple of goes were really rules lite affairs. We started with just an infantry action from Don Featherstone’s “Skirmish Wargames” book. This was just to get used to the flow of the game. Then we added 1 wizard and a few companions to see how the magic went. Finally we went full on gaming with all the rules and campaign elements. It’s been a good time so far. However, my little opponent is sometimes not so focused, especially in the later evening when we have time to play a turn or two. I guess I should cut him some slack. He is only 9 after all.
I’ve been shopping on occasion at wargame vault for various terrain bits. I’ve picked up a few ruins from Microtactix, a paper terrain company that started back around 2000. Their models still hold up well to the more advanced competition such as Fat Dragon Games, another favorite of mine. Recently, I’ve been perusing some models from Wargame Print. I bought a few of their models back when their selection was quite limited. I am amazed now at how extensive their offerings have become. I have the Greek Fort, which is sized quite nicely for a DBA BUA in 15mm. I’ve also picked up the Waterloo style buildings in 6mm. These are modular buildings so you can add and take away from one structure to make different looking complexes. This is also a multi-layered PDF so it is possible to change the skins with three different options of walls and another three different options of windows/doors.
Greek Fort (Fromt Wargame Vault Website)
Some example terrain from my Portable Wargame including a building from the 6mm Waterloo Style buildings
This weekend, besides taking the kids to a birthday party and a soccer game, there will be some more Frostgrave. I also hope to have the other two Rolls Royce Armored Cars done…or at least close.
September 21, 2017
In issue #22 of the now defunct Battlegames Magazine, Neil Thomas wrote his gaming manifesto, or why simple gaming rules can get the job done. In issue #23, the author returns with a simple set of wargame rules that illustrates how one could create such a game with a simple set of rules for 18th Century warfare. I posted my thoughts about the game many moons ago here. After giving some more consideration to these rules, I think I’d like to give a whack at my own set along the same vein. Much of the methodology would remain the same. Shooting would use a single die with a required number to cause 1 hit. There would be a 4+ save for any unit in substantial cover. Melee combat would be handled by a contested die roll. Each advantage would grant a +1 on the die. The loser takes 2 hits and retreats a move. 4 Hits would remove a unit from play. That is the game in a nutshell.
The game is strictly IGO-UGO. I will probably change this to IGO-UGO within the movement phase. Shooting would be simultaneous with non-moving units shooting first followed by moving units. I would allow some units to make double moves and even triple moves along a road so long as they stay out of engagement range of the enemy during their move. Melee would also be simultaneous. The unit actually charging in would be deemed the attacker. The defender would get any modifiers specific to the defender. I think a single general in such a game is useful for rallying a unit or inspiring them in close combat. If a unit was out of engagement range and the general is attached, that unit could rally 1 point back on a 4+. They can never rally back to full. So a unit that took its first hit cannot rally it back. Finally, I’d allow the general to charge into combat with a unit affording that unit a +1. However, the general can be killed during the combat. On a die roll of 6, the general falls in combat.
This really requires some more thought. I don’t want to destroy the “vibe” of the game and make it something it was never supposed to be. I’ve been building Rolls Royce armored car card models. There will be plenty of time to ponder while I build.