I went to the local hobby shop and was determined to buy a can of primer knowing very well that it would likely be GW and the cost would be $14. As it turns out, GW primer has become prohibitively expensive at $19 for a 10oz can! I remembered a friend of mine was using a primer called Krylon Brite Touch. It is an automotive primer but can be used on metal or plastic. The cost is a whopping $3.50 for a 10oz can. It can be had in the USA at most autoparts stores or even W
It’s been a while since I’ve done one of these posts but I do rather like writing them. Mainly, it’s been time, life ad the complete lack of energy that’s been keeping me from writing these as well as other items. My back/leg is feeling much better. I still have a small amount of numbness in the bottom of my foot but each day, the feeling has returned more and more. Most of the time I can walk without a limp. I’m pretty happy about this.
PCS has a game and line of miniatures called Mortem et Gloriam for pre-order. The first release will include a line of miniatures that will cover the failing Roman Empire of c450AD. Romans and Goths and Huns! Oh my! The figures look quite nice from the couple of photos I’ve seen. They are plastic so maybe they won’t be for everyone. The associated game seems to ustilize cards and chips. It is not really my thing but may be of some interest to someone. The miniatures, while I have no desire to pre-order, are of interest to me. One day, I’d love to put on a game of the Battle of Chalons.
I think I’ve figured out a way to keep a project from stalling. It requires 4-5 projects to be going at one time. For instance, I’ve stopped painting AWI right now and have been painting some ships for the Russo-Japanese war. Well, I am a little tired of that too. So, I do have a bunch of Elves and Orcs I’ve been planing on using for the Battle of Five Armies. I think I shall bring those fellows out and paint them some. When I get tired of that, I still have my WW2 Western Desert project. That one is close to being usable for small game scenarios. Then, if my instinct is correct, I’ll circle back to one of the other projects, hopefully the AWI.
In my last post about my favorite rules, I said that I would work on combat in the next post. Well, I generally like to write rules in order of sequence of play. Movement comes next, so today I shall talk about movement.
Like everything else, I like to keep my rules short and sweet. Infantry can move 6″ and cavalry can move 12″. Remember, this can be modified by morale results. Sometimes, a morale result can allow only a half move or even no move at all. Other times, the unit might fall back or route 1 or two moves, which counts as the unit’s move for that turn.
Formed units typically turn about the center with a turn consuming half a move. Skirmish/light units may turn about the center up to 45 degrees for free. Optionally, a unit may wheel and spend movement for each inch moved measured from the outside corner.
A formation change costs a unit a half move. Formations can be line and column. Columns can be march column or field column. March column is 3 figures wide with multiple ranks lined up behind. Field column is 6 figures wide with multiple ranks lined up behind.
As mentioned, infantry moves 6″ and cavalry 12″. A unit in column gets a bonus move of +3″. A unit in march column may gain an additional bonus of +3″ if it moves entirely on a road or path. Finally, skirmish/light units get +3″ for being in skirmish formation.
It should be noted that a unit that is afforded a half move because of a morale result would only be able to move, change formation or turn as it only has a half move available to do one of the three.
As a final note, morale plays heavily on a unit’s movement ability. A player may typically move their units as they see fit, within the rules of course! When a unit starts taking casualties, morale rolls are typically required and this can slow a unit or even force it back.
So there it is! Short and sweet! Next time, I shall provide rules for combat. This time I mean it!
I’ve been printing out ships on my 3D printer over the last couple of months and have even put brush to plastic! I based them on some artist matting board and painted in the sea foam. The masts had to be added to most of the ships. I used a bit of Plastruct plastic rod 1mm radius.
The ships were all 1:5000 scale but I enlarged them to 1:2400 scale (208%). The battleships road a little high so I dropped them below the print bed by 1.5mm. That is a common trick to shorted the height without actually knowing how to design a 3D model. The armored cruisers were designed too wide so I ended up narrowing the model by 20% (I think). I also shortend the model (Z-axis) because I did not know I could just lower the model below the print bed. This left the funnels too short. So I ended up replacing them with my own funnels with tiny bits of plastic rod.
The Fuji (2nd from the left) was also designed way too wide. In reality it was not any wider than the Mikasa (left). I narrowed it by 25% and it looked spot on. I am quite happy with the way these turned out. I’ve got some cruisers, destroyers and torpedo boats to paint and then it is on to the Russian navy. I already have 3 Russian ships for the action off Ulsan. They need primed and painted though.
It’s been longer than I intended to get this thing rolling. I pinch my sciatic nerve and I aggravated it to the point where I had to head to the doctor for some medicinal help. I am well on my way back to full strength now and am ready to get going.
Initiative, turn sequence and morale seem like quite a lot of ground to cover but frankly, it really isn’t. For initiative, it should be a matter of a head to head roll. If one side has a better commanding general, then they get to add 1 to the roll. A tie goes to the side that one the initiative last turn. If it is the first turn of the game, a tie goes to the attacker. The winner chooses to move first or second during the turn. If they choose to move second, then they are surrendering the initiative to the other side. This means that the initiative winner becomes the other side for tie breaking purposes.
The turn sequence is as follows:
Side A moves all of its units
Side B moves all of its units.
Both sides shoot with the following priority.
- Units that did not move shoot first both sides simultaneous
- Units that moved shoot next both sides simultaneous
Close combats are performed.
Units that took casualties are marked with a marker indicating that they will take a morale check before they can move in the NEXT turn.
Morale checks are made immediately before a given unit moves. Sometimes it will be better for a player to move units at risk of routing first while other times you can wait until later in the turn. Morale checks can result in a unit retreating, routing or even skedaddling off the board. They can potentially shrug off the effects and move normally that turn or even go out of control and advance aggressively toward the enemy as a result of a morale check. Nearby commanders can influence the die roll up or down by 1 or even 2 for army commanders but they will risk being killed.
0- Unit dissolves. Remove from play.
1 Unit routes 2 moves. D3 casualties.
2 Unit retreats 1 move.
3 Unit may not move and remains disordered. Check again next turn.
4 Unit rallies with consuming all movement.
5 Unit rallies consuming half movement.
6 Unit rallies without loss of movement.
7+ Unit rallies. Cavalry and impetuous units make an uncontrolled advance toward the enemy attempting to make contact.
-1 for 25% casualties, in contact with an enemy, charged in flank or rear
-2 for 50% casualties
+2/+1/0/-1/-2 Army Commander nearby or -1/0/+1 other general nearby.
For standing against an enemy charge, a 6+ and the unit will fight first, 5 or 4 unit fights simultaneously with charging unit, 3 unit disorders (morale marker for next turn) and fights simultaneously but at half effect. 2 or 1 unit retreats 1 move and fights second if contacted anyway. 0 or less unit routes 2 moves taking D3 casualties. Also does not fight back if contacted anyway.
When a commander is used, roll a die. On a 6, the commander is hit and may not use his influence. 1-2 horse shot. Commander is out for the next turn. 3-4 commander is wounded. Out D6 turns. 5-6 commander is mortally wounded or killed.
It seems to be a trend these days where designers go for simplicity in much of their design and then muddle up the rules in the name of command and control. They constantly try to go for near simultaneous play. To me, this is a huge mistake for a number of reasons. 1) it often very hard to explain these rules to new players and even players who are more used to IGO-UGO. Having both sides moving within the same phase and then resolving combat with a few simple priorities works wonders for keeping the game flowing and it still allows both sides to get into the fight. The morale checks right before the unit moves will ensure an amount of uncertainty and that commanders can influence the die roll allows for a simple command and control system.
Units should be allowed to move as the players wish (within the rules!) until they get stuck in. It is a rare occurrence that a formation would sit idly by for no apparent reason at all. They are not under attack and likely will move toward the front when ordered to go. Once stuck in, it will become increasingly difficult for a commander to control the units until it becomes unengaged. The morale rules do an excellent job of enforcing the latter.
There is nothing difficult to explain here. It is fairly linear in concept. Both players remain engaged in game play throughout the turn. I’ve used this system many times and have blted it onto my Featherstone rewrite, which you can find on my “Old School” page at the top of this blog.
Next time, I will go through the combat rules. I’ll be changing them up some, moving away from the Featherstone style combat mechanisms. I’ll even give some options for those that like saving throws and for those that prefer to do without them.
Gaming is not something I do over the holidays except for the odd computer game or maybe a game of checkers. Holidays do give me time to ponder what it is I want to do in gaming over the next year. One of those things, of course, is to finish up my considerably large project for the American War of Independence. I plan on using “A Gentleman’s War” for head to head smaller games. It does provide a fun wargame for both players but does not really lend itself well to multiplayer games.
I’ve been gaming long enough to know exactly what game mechanics work for me and what don’t. Often I write games as an experiment and use one game mechanic or another. Sometimes it is just to provide a more codified game system. But it occurs to me that I’ve used enough of these mechanics and definitely favor some over others. So I’ve decided to write a rules set that, in theory, would be my perfect rules set. So, much like I did with Charles Grant’s magazine game “Battle”, I plan on going through the various phases in a series of articles and coming up with something (not so) unique that appeals to my taste. With some luck, I hope that you will find it appealing too.
Other than designing yet another wargame, I do plan on continuing with my AWI project. I also have some 3D printed pre-dreadnought ships that deserve some attention. I am planning on using White Bear, Red Sun (Manley) for the rules. I have some 6mm ww2 figures already painted and based looking for a rules set to play. Playing a double blind game of Crossfire (Conliffe) is quite approachable and my son might even put down his Pokemon deck to play.
Continuing from part 1. Bertie had made his escape. The rest of the party would follow up.
The party escaped a surprisingly tough fight. One member was knocked down but his wounds proved superficial. In the end, with some loot from bodies and the treasure cache, the party ended 97 coins and a total of 5 XP, 1 from finding an item of interest and 4 for completing the mission.