By request, here is a copy of On to Richmond D6. It is not a faithful reproduction of the rules as the randomizer is a D6 instead of a D10. The morale and melee system have both been reworked and streamlined. Enjoy!
Artillery generally has a maximum range of 4 times the maximum range of muskets. So if a musket has a range of 8″, then artillery has a maximum range of 32″. A battery should be represented by a single gun model and 3-4 figures. Each figure is representative of a single section. This is particularly useful when trying to distinguish between a horse battery which typically had 3 sections and a field battery which usually would be 4 sections. British batteries always have 3 sections regardless of type.
Artillery ranges are close(2+), short(3+), medium(4+), long(5+) and extreme(6+). A die is rolled per figure in the battery with each successful hit being a casualty. There is a penalty of 1 when firing at other artillery and skirmishers.
Field artillery move at the rate of line infantry and may not fire on any turn they move more than 1″. Horse artillery move at the rate of light infantry and can not fire if they move over half of their movement.
Close and short range cover the same range band. If we have a 32″ range then close range is 4″, short is 8″, medium is 16″, long is 24″ and extreme is 32″.
That is about it for now.
Combat, be it melee or shooting, can share most of the same mechanics. I went back and forth with whether or not their should be a saving throw. Given that most simple games do, I thought I’d be different and dispense with them.
Lets take shooting first. I read once in an old Strategy and Tactics magazine, the one with the game Ney vs Wellington, that a musket was about 95% accurate at about 40 yard, 45% accurate at 100 yards and 5% accurate out to 200 yards. These are probably generalizations. I do agree that accuracy falls off at about 50 yards. The musket is probably not the limiting factor. It is the MK-I eyeball, the optical range finder that has not changed since the dawn of humanity that limits accuracy. Even in todays modern military, a firefight rarely occurs outside of 300 yards, which is the same range that firefights developed during the American Civil War.
I digress. The accuracy numbers are almost certainly only valid for a man who has no pressure and plenty of time to aim. For our purposes, we can fudge these into probabilities on a six sided dice. At close range, even under duress, a man can remain pretty accurate. So at short range, a roll of 3+ is a successful hit on a target in the open. Since we have no saves, a hit is a “kill.” At medium range, a 5 or 6 on a six sided die is a hit. We could over think this and say that 2 hits are required for 1 kill at long range and only a 6 is a hit. We are playing a game here. A 6 is required to hit.
We could say that we roll 1 die per figure shooting. That would probably result in a rather quick game. I’ve seen 1 die per 2 figures in games that had saving throws. I think for our game 1 die per 3 figures is good enough. At close range casualties will mount quickly. At longer range casualties will almost certainly mount slowly resulting inn a prolonged firefight. Round up the number of dice because this is being designed for a collection based as 3 figures per stand. So really you are rolling 1 die per stand.
Ranges can be whatever you want but short range is out to 1 quarter maximum range. Medium range is out to half maximum range. Long range is out to maximum range. Generally there can be a cover penalty of -1 or -2. -1 is appropriate for most cover. The target could be woods or inside a wooden building. -2 should be reserved for the toughest of cover such as trenches or higher stone walls. If the modifier puts you at a 7 or more to hit, then your fire is ineffective. It may seem a little harsh but it keeps a player from fighting the action at Marye’s Heights from long range. The player will have to move in close just to hit the enemy at a disadvantage while the enemy will likely delivering casualties at twice the rate!
You are probably wondering, “What is with the to hit numbers anyway?” 3+ is twice as likely as 5+ while 5+ is twice as likely as 6+. With that, we can ow discuss the melee, which units will hit on a 4+ in an even fight.
With melee you can have a list of situations that may favor one side or the other. Sum up the totals that apply to each side. If the difference is 1, the disadvantaged side hits on a 5+ in melee while the advantaged side still hits on a 4+. If the difference is 2 or more, then the advantaged side hits on a 3+ while the disadvantaged side hits on a 5+. I don’t want to make this too granular. Melee is messy. Casualties are always going to be inflicted on both sides.
In a melee, one side or the other must win. There are no ties. If the casualty totals are even, the attacker is repulsed. Otherwise, the victor is the side that inflicted the most casualties. This total for victory purposes can be increased if a general or other supreme commander is in the fight. He will usually add 1 or 2 to the total for victory point total calculations.
Finally, you are probably thinking that melee should be more bloody. Well, it has been shown time and time again that hand to hand combat was rare and short. One side or the other usually broke before the enemy came to grips. When combat did occur, other engagement would be resolved quickly.
That is enough for tonight. I would like to thank Vincent Tzao for kicking me into gear. 😉
I went to the local hobby shop and was determined to buy a can of primer knowing very well that it would likely be GW and the cost would be $14. As it turns out, GW primer has become prohibitively expensive at $19 for a 10oz can! I remembered a friend of mine was using a primer called Krylon Brite Touch. It is an automotive primer but can be used on metal or plastic. The cost is a whopping $3.50 for a 10oz can. It can be had in the USA at most autoparts stores or even W
It’s been a while since I’ve done one of these posts but I do rather like writing them. Mainly, it’s been time, life ad the complete lack of energy that’s been keeping me from writing these as well as other items. My back/leg is feeling much better. I still have a small amount of numbness in the bottom of my foot but each day, the feeling has returned more and more. Most of the time I can walk without a limp. I’m pretty happy about this.
PCS has a game and line of miniatures called Mortem et Gloriam for pre-order. The first release will include a line of miniatures that will cover the failing Roman Empire of c450AD. Romans and Goths and Huns! Oh my! The figures look quite nice from the couple of photos I’ve seen. They are plastic so maybe they won’t be for everyone. The associated game seems to ustilize cards and chips. It is not really my thing but may be of some interest to someone. The miniatures, while I have no desire to pre-order, are of interest to me. One day, I’d love to put on a game of the Battle of Chalons.
I think I’ve figured out a way to keep a project from stalling. It requires 4-5 projects to be going at one time. For instance, I’ve stopped painting AWI right now and have been painting some ships for the Russo-Japanese war. Well, I am a little tired of that too. So, I do have a bunch of Elves and Orcs I’ve been planing on using for the Battle of Five Armies. I think I shall bring those fellows out and paint them some. When I get tired of that, I still have my WW2 Western Desert project. That one is close to being usable for small game scenarios. Then, if my instinct is correct, I’ll circle back to one of the other projects, hopefully the AWI.
In my last post about my favorite rules, I said that I would work on combat in the next post. Well, I generally like to write rules in order of sequence of play. Movement comes next, so today I shall talk about movement.
Like everything else, I like to keep my rules short and sweet. Infantry can move 6″ and cavalry can move 12″. Remember, this can be modified by morale results. Sometimes, a morale result can allow only a half move or even no move at all. Other times, the unit might fall back or route 1 or two moves, which counts as the unit’s move for that turn.
Formed units typically turn about the center with a turn consuming half a move. Skirmish/light units may turn about the center up to 45 degrees for free. Optionally, a unit may wheel and spend movement for each inch moved measured from the outside corner.
A formation change costs a unit a half move. Formations can be line and column. Columns can be march column or field column. March column is 3 figures wide with multiple ranks lined up behind. Field column is 6 figures wide with multiple ranks lined up behind.
As mentioned, infantry moves 6″ and cavalry 12″. A unit in column gets a bonus move of +3″. A unit in march column may gain an additional bonus of +3″ if it moves entirely on a road or path. Finally, skirmish/light units get +3″ for being in skirmish formation.
It should be noted that a unit that is afforded a half move because of a morale result would only be able to move, change formation or turn as it only has a half move available to do one of the three.
As a final note, morale plays heavily on a unit’s movement ability. A player may typically move their units as they see fit, within the rules of course! When a unit starts taking casualties, morale rolls are typically required and this can slow a unit or even force it back.
So there it is! Short and sweet! Next time, I shall provide rules for combat. This time I mean it!
I’ve been printing out ships on my 3D printer over the last couple of months and have even put brush to plastic! I based them on some artist matting board and painted in the sea foam. The masts had to be added to most of the ships. I used a bit of Plastruct plastic rod 1mm radius.
The ships were all 1:5000 scale but I enlarged them to 1:2400 scale (208%). The battleships road a little high so I dropped them below the print bed by 1.5mm. That is a common trick to shorted the height without actually knowing how to design a 3D model. The armored cruisers were designed too wide so I ended up narrowing the model by 20% (I think). I also shortend the model (Z-axis) because I did not know I could just lower the model below the print bed. This left the funnels too short. So I ended up replacing them with my own funnels with tiny bits of plastic rod.
The Fuji (2nd from the left) was also designed way too wide. In reality it was not any wider than the Mikasa (left). I narrowed it by 25% and it looked spot on. I am quite happy with the way these turned out. I’ve got some cruisers, destroyers and torpedo boats to paint and then it is on to the Russian navy. I already have 3 Russian ships for the action off Ulsan. They need primed and painted though.