Armored Car Company

February 19, 2017

These have been mostly finished and sitting on my paint table for a few weeks now.  I did not want to bring out the paints until my figures arrived from EWM.  Well, they did arrive yesterday and I spent some of the day today lining and touching up the models.  I think the results look pretty good!  All models by Paper Tiger Armaments.  Note that the sdkfz.222 also comes with a truck.  I have not built it…yet.

In search of the British army. sdkfz.231 in between two sdkfz.222.

In search of the British army. sdkfz.231 in between two sdkfz.222.

Upper front view.

Upper front view.

Rear view. Mission complete. Heading home!

Rear view. Mission complete. Heading home!

I suppose the extreme weathering with gray underneath is to show that they were hastily painted either before or after arriving in N. Africa.  Maybe they should have primed first?  😉


All (not so) Quiet

February 17, 2017

I have not been posting but have been a little busy over the past week.  The little General wanted me to build a Tiger Tank.  I rescaled Rawan’s Tiger I from 1:100 scale.  I think it came out well.  The other thing I’ve been doing is working on a sdkfz.10 artillery tractor.  Pictured on the right, it is the white template.  No tracks or wheels yet.  But those are pretty easy to do anyway.  I do need to adjust the front fenders, widening them and fixing the length.

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Side by side.  The half track is tiny!

Tiger Gun barrel is the length of a toothpick minus the tapered ends. 7/8″ of paper was wrapped twice followed by 7/16″ width of paper wrapped 3 times to get the tapered look of the gun. The muzzle break is 1/8″ of a medium kabob skewer.  The half track took me about 3 days to get to this point. I suspect I will have a detailed version this weekend.

The total build time of the Tiger was about 3 hours.  I think it took me about 1 hour to get the half track built to that point.  Maybe another half hour for tracks and wheels.

EDIT Here is the half track with wheels and tracks.  When I printed it out, I realized I forgot to duplicate the wheel.  Fortunately, there was a spare from my sdkfz.231 sitting on the table.

Wheels and tracks.

Wheels and tracks.


The Finished Product (mostly)

February 7, 2017

This is my final prototype.  I lowered the front edge of the front fenders a little.  I am unhappy with the window texture.  They are just to bright.  I am thinking a glass texture with a brown tint would be better.  Anyway, here are a few shots.  Included in one of the shots is a Kubelwagen by “Rawen” for size comparison.  It was a 1:100 scale model resized to 1:72 scale.  It comes with a Tiger I as well.  My son will be happy when I finally get that built.

Side/Rear shot to show off the rear "fenders". I simply added a circular strip of 67 lbs paper that was slightly larger than the wheel well. I've included 4 in the model just in case one gets messed up.

Side/Rear shot to show off the rear “fenders”. I simply added a circular strip of 67 lbs paper that was slightly larger than the wheel well. I’ve included 4 in the model just in case one gets messed up.

Front shot showing off the lowered front fender edges as well as the front bumper and windshield. I am not happy with the glass color.

Front shot showing off the lowered front fender edges as well as the front bumper and windshield. I am not happy with the glass color.

Overhead to show the basic interior print I added. Surprisingly effective with out much fuss. The roof will be permanently glues on.

Overhead to show the basic interior print I added. Surprisingly effective with out much fuss. The roof will be permanently glues on.

The axles are just 1" lengths of florist wire. Rough them up before gluing. I think the wire is about 20 gauge.

The axles are just 1″ lengths of florist wire. Rough them up before gluing. I think the wire is about 20 gauge.

Side by side with a quick build Kubelwagon by "Rawen."

Side by side with a quick build Kubelwagon by “Rawen.”

You can get the final model in jpg on the “Old School” page on this blog.

Quick notes: Cut out all of the black areas and discard.  The rear fenders make sure you do the black areas out first and then the outer edge.  I found it easier to cut the rear fenders with a knife being careful to leave enough paper to hold the piece in place.  Use 65-67 pound paper.  Some of the lines are not meant to be cut!  Print out at 85ppi for the correct scaling.

If you are new to card modeling, check out www.papermodelers.com.  Wonderful site full of very helpful folks!


Horch in color

February 7, 2017

I made some changes to the fender assembly and added a small bumper.  I eyeballed everything and luck was on my side.  The fenders and bumper were perfect lengths.

Front view with new fenders and bumper.  Not a great shot.  My

Front view with new fenders and bumper. Not a great shot. My “good” camera uses AA batteries and they went dead.

Rear view.  I used a straight edge when scoring most of the folds to get an ultra straight line.  The fold where the roof meets the body was not straight on my white prototype.  There was a small gap.  Perfect fit this time.

Rear view. I used a straight edge when scoring most of the folds to get an ultra straight line. The fold where the roof meets the body was not straight on my white prototype. There was a small gap. Perfect fit this time.

I still need to draw interiors.  I’ll also make a “roof down” option.  Finally, I forgot to draw in the rear fenders.  They don’t need to protrude as they are almost flush.  But they are supposed to be there and noticeable.


A Horch by Any Other Name…

February 6, 2017

One of those models that is most useful for any WW2 German Army is the Horch 108 as either the Type 1A or the Type 40.  The models used to be produced by Dragon and two in 1/72 scale could be had for about $20.  While not great, it was affordable.   Those, however, don’t seem to be in production anymore.  There is a MAC model (I think) but the price is at least $20 for just 1.  So, this weekend, I took it upon myself to make my own card model. Completely original work.  The following picks show only the template.  The details still need to be added to the model but the general shape is there.  The only thing missing really is the front bumper. I am thinking I need to widen the front fenders a little too.

 

An early prototype from Saturday. It was an exercise in understanding how the hood was supposed to angle and fold. Mostly pretty easy.

An early prototype from Saturday. It was an exercise in understanding how the hood was supposed to angle and fold. Mostly pretty easy.

A final build with all adjusted parts. The front fenders look a bit thin. I will either thin the wheels in the front or widen the fenders slightly. Front bumper still needs to be added.

A final build with all adjusted parts. The front fenders look a bit thin. I will either thin the wheels in the front or widen the fenders slightly. Front bumper still needs to be added.

My son said I needed to add the roof.  I was originally going to leave the roof off and add the folded ridge in the back.  He said he wanted it to look more like a truck.  Who is to argue with the little General, right?  Total build time of the final model was about 2 hours.  That could go more quickly with an assembly line.


Lord of the Rings Siege

October 10, 2016

My son and I have been having fun with a LotR siege game.  The game pits a small force of 12 elves and a hero against 2 bands of 12 Orcs as well as an Ogre and a small band of goblin archers.  If a band of Orcs are eliminated or routed, the  a new band comes to battle on the next turn.  The ogre and archers are removed from the game if they are killed.  The Orc force also has 4 ladders to scale the wall with.  The Elves must hold until turn 15, when another force of Elves arrives, ending the unlimited supply of Orcs.  At this point, the battle will be fought until turn 20 or until one side is completely routed.

Special rules.

  1. It takes a full turn to climb a ladder.
  2. The assaulting player may make an attack at the top if it survives a free shot by a defending character, assuming one is waiting for him at the top of the ladder
  3. If the assaulting character hits the defender (whether the defender saves or not) he may push his way onto the rampart.
  4. Ogres may attack the door and will batter it down on a ‘1’.
  5. Defenders may topple a ladder.  On a 3 the ladder is toppled.  This number is 1 less for each character on the ladder.
  6. If a ladder is toppled, the bottom character simply jumps down unhurt.  The top character must make a save or die.

Jack managed to eliminate my archers by turn 2.  They did, however, kill one of the elves with a lucky shot.  The Ogre managed to get to the door but was unable to bash it down before getting hit by a hail of arrows.  The ladders were placed on the wall and the Orcs managed to force their way up at one point on the front.  Then, the unthinkable happened.  It was bedtime.  Here are some pictures of the initial assault as well as the action at the end of turn 5.

Forces of evil approach the keep.

Forces of evil approach the keep.

A view from the Elven side.  One Orc has pushed his way onto the rampart.

A view from the Elven side. One Orc has pushed his way onto the rampart.

A view from the front.  The Orcs are scampering up the ladders.

A view from the front. The Orcs are scampering up the ladders.

A view from the side of the castle.  One of the ladder crews was frozen by Gandalf.  They come back next turn.

A view from the side of the castle. One of the ladder crews was frozen by Gandalf. They come back next turn.

The castle is by Toshach Miniatures.  It is a free 10mm paper model that was enlarged to 1/72 scale.  The images were high resolution so enlarging them did not lose any of the clarity.  Great little model.  The ladders came from Fat Dragon Games Siege Engines set.  The images here are seamless so I was able to simply add several lengths together and reduced them to 75%.  I then cut two notches so I could hang miniatures on the ladders to make them look like they were scaling the wall.  This set is a must have if you want some cheap siege engines including a siege tower and a covered battering ram.  I recommend printing them at 75% or maybe even a little less.


DF-Like updated to 1.5

July 11, 2015

I finally got around to updating my Featherstone-Like rules.  I’ve changed the way melee is resolved.  Charging units now retreat if they took 25% casualties on the approach.  There is a morale table to resolve melees now.  The loser rolls and applies the result.  There is also an option to recall cavalry that failed a morale check with no move near an enemy.  The latest rules can be found here.