February 19, 2017
These have been mostly finished and sitting on my paint table for a few weeks now. I did not want to bring out the paints until my figures arrived from EWM. Well, they did arrive yesterday and I spent some of the day today lining and touching up the models. I think the results look pretty good! All models by Paper Tiger Armaments. Note that the sdkfz.222 also comes with a truck. I have not built it…yet.
In search of the British army. sdkfz.231 in between two sdkfz.222.
Upper front view.
Rear view. Mission complete. Heading home!
I suppose the extreme weathering with gray underneath is to show that they were hastily painted either before or after arriving in N. Africa. Maybe they should have primed first? 😉
February 7, 2017
This is my final prototype. I lowered the front edge of the front fenders a little. I am unhappy with the window texture. They are just to bright. I am thinking a glass texture with a brown tint would be better. Anyway, here are a few shots. Included in one of the shots is a Kubelwagen by “Rawen” for size comparison. It was a 1:100 scale model resized to 1:72 scale. It comes with a Tiger I as well. My son will be happy when I finally get that built.
Side/Rear shot to show off the rear “fenders”. I simply added a circular strip of 67 lbs paper that was slightly larger than the wheel well. I’ve included 4 in the model just in case one gets messed up.
Front shot showing off the lowered front fender edges as well as the front bumper and windshield. I am not happy with the glass color.
Overhead to show the basic interior print I added. Surprisingly effective with out much fuss. The roof will be permanently glues on.
The axles are just 1″ lengths of florist wire. Rough them up before gluing. I think the wire is about 20 gauge.
Side by side with a quick build Kubelwagon by “Rawen.”
You can get the final model in jpg on the “Old School” page on this blog.
Quick notes: Cut out all of the black areas and discard. The rear fenders make sure you do the black areas out first and then the outer edge. I found it easier to cut the rear fenders with a knife being careful to leave enough paper to hold the piece in place. Use 65-67 pound paper. Some of the lines are not meant to be cut! Print out at 85ppi for the correct scaling.
If you are new to card modeling, check out www.papermodelers.com. Wonderful site full of very helpful folks!
February 7, 2017
I made some changes to the fender assembly and added a small bumper. I eyeballed everything and luck was on my side. The fenders and bumper were perfect lengths.
Front view with new fenders and bumper. Not a great shot. My “good” camera uses AA batteries and they went dead.
Rear view. I used a straight edge when scoring most of the folds to get an ultra straight line. The fold where the roof meets the body was not straight on my white prototype. There was a small gap. Perfect fit this time.
I still need to draw interiors. I’ll also make a “roof down” option. Finally, I forgot to draw in the rear fenders. They don’t need to protrude as they are almost flush. But they are supposed to be there and noticeable.
January 20, 2017
Here’s a quick update with a couple of pictures of the Sdkfz 222 model from Paper Tiger Armaments.
The front fenders were a bit tricky if only because there were no guide marks on the model. You have to eyeball the placement. The reference picture that comes with the model was a big help.
The chassis and body were easy enough to assemble. It was only 2 pieces.
January 20, 2017
Part of my “block” clearly was my feeling of being overwhelmed by the two main projects I have going right now. Rapid Fire demands some moderate forces. If you want to game the Siege of Tobruk, you needs a fair few figures. I don’t know that I will ever get to that level but even the more moderate sized forces seem a bit daunting, especially since I am using card models for my vehicles.
I’ve broken my build process down by unit and am currently trying to stay focused on the early part of the Desert War. To that end, I am starting with the 5th Light Division and it’s recon battalion. It does require about 13 figures, 3 armored cards, a pair of combo motorcycles 2 kubelwagons, a half track, 2 heavy cars, an infantry gun and a PAK 36 AT gun. I’ve already built 3 kubelwagons. The third can either be used in the motorcycle infantry battalion or as part of the later era recon battalion. I have all the infantry though I need a 5cm mortar and one anti-tank rifle. Both, I believe I can scratch built out of plastruct and card. Junior General has an ATR. I can try cutting one out just the stock and replace the barrel with a thin piece of plastruct. The 5cm Mortar is really a tube, a base plate and a very small kick stand. It is not very different from the British 2″ mortar. Probably only the stand. I’ve already posted a picture of the kubelwagen. I am currently working on an sdkfz 222. The OB also calls for a 221 which only has an MG and has a smaller turret. I may just make them both 222s and not worry about the small turret. I can even make an alternate turret in case I want two 222s.
The final bit is the Horch 108 type 40 heavy car. I cannot find a card model for it. I believe Best Paper Models had one in 1/48 scale but it has not been posted to their new site yet. In fact, they only have posted about 20 of their more than 500 or so models so far. They are moving slowly. So, I will probably be venturing into the world of card model design. The Horch is relatively square. The hood should have rounded edges to make it look somewhat authentic. That will probably be the hardest part of this effort. I think I can do it though.
I started working on a Valentine tank, another not represented by a card model. That is a later era desert tank though. It shall sit on the back burner for a while, along with my M-3 Grants.
January 16, 2017
Over the weekend I worked on a couple of models seen below. Both models are by Rawan. The first is a Kubelwagon as part of a “kit” which includes a tiger tank recolored in desert colors. I rescaled it from its original 1:100 scale to 1:72 scale. For those not in the know, you can simply divide one denominator by the other to rescale. To make a larger scale print, simply divide the smaller by the larger. Example: 100/72 = 1.39. That is the amount you must increase your image by. But enough of the math lesson.
The vehicle went together easy enough with the main chassis being one “box.” There were few extras except the wheels and the fenders. The rear fenders protrude a bit much but not overly so. The front fenders are a bit skewed. the designer probably should have tapered them, something that I will try tonight,.
The second models are German BMW motorcycles. One with a side car and one without. This was an extremely fiddly model. Again, I rescaled it to 1:72 scale for the build. I couldn’t imagine trying to make the build in 1:100 scale!
I quite like the Kubelwagon. It is a solid piece that is easy to build. Great traits to have when you need a dozen or so for your wargame table. The BMW, I am afraid, is too difficult and fragile for a wargame. I was taking a close look at my motorcycle with the side car and accidentally dropped and broke it. So, I will not pursue those as an option. It is a nice looking model and does go together well, but you have to have a lot of time per vehicle to get them together. I ended up ordering the 11 motorcycle platoon from Plastic Soldier Company. It works out to about $3.50 per bike and sidecar and has the bonus of coming with two riders.
BMW Bike with Sidecar, BMW Solo Bike, Kubelwagon. All are in rough form without touchup paint though I did ink the wheels with a Sharpie.
January 11, 2017
Wargame Vault and all of their affiliates finally have a PDF on sale for $4.99. This was probably the first Medieval Wargame I ever played. I remember setting up those Sheriff of Nottingham figures on the living room floor and fightingout battles. I never had enough cavalry to overcome the archers of Sir Robin.
The game is quite simple in concept. Each hit causes a kill and the front rank of a formation gets to strike. The whole formation counts when determining the victor. I’ve always had a couple of gripes with the game though, minor as they are. First was the way missile fire is handled and its power. The number of figures are cross indexed with a die roll on a chart. There are two possible outcomes separated by just one point. It made archery kind of deterministic. If you only had five figures left and the enemy could do 3 to you at a minimum, well good night Irene. On top of that, archers could often fire twice if they were not contacted by the end of the movement phase. I guess Gary Gygax liked his “shooty” things.
The other issue is the way combat outcomes were handled. I don’t mean casualties. That is pretty straight forward as I mentioned. I mean the process of determining who won and who lost. It was a 5 or 6 step process which involved some multiplication. I don’t think it’s so bad since you rarely dealt with more than about 3 or 4 combats a turn anyway, but it is cumbersome.
It is otherwise a wonderful game and some say it is the game that started the whole DnD craze. You can get it here.