Here’s a quick update with a couple of pictures of the Sdkfz 222 model from Paper Tiger Armaments.
Part of my “block” clearly was my feeling of being overwhelmed by the two main projects I have going right now. Rapid Fire demands some moderate forces. If you want to game the Siege of Tobruk, you needs a fair few figures. I don’t know that I will ever get to that level but even the more moderate sized forces seem a bit daunting, especially since I am using card models for my vehicles.
I’ve broken my build process down by unit and am currently trying to stay focused on the early part of the Desert War. To that end, I am starting with the 5th Light Division and it’s recon battalion. It does require about 13 figures, 3 armored cards, a pair of combo motorcycles 2 kubelwagons, a half track, 2 heavy cars, an infantry gun and a PAK 36 AT gun. I’ve already built 3 kubelwagons. The third can either be used in the motorcycle infantry battalion or as part of the later era recon battalion. I have all the infantry though I need a 5cm mortar and one anti-tank rifle. Both, I believe I can scratch built out of plastruct and card. Junior General has an ATR. I can try cutting one out just the stock and replace the barrel with a thin piece of plastruct. The 5cm Mortar is really a tube, a base plate and a very small kick stand. It is not very different from the British 2″ mortar. Probably only the stand. I’ve already posted a picture of the kubelwagen. I am currently working on an sdkfz 222. The OB also calls for a 221 which only has an MG and has a smaller turret. I may just make them both 222s and not worry about the small turret. I can even make an alternate turret in case I want two 222s.
The final bit is the Horch 108 type 40 heavy car. I cannot find a card model for it. I believe Best Paper Models had one in 1/48 scale but it has not been posted to their new site yet. In fact, they only have posted about 20 of their more than 500 or so models so far. They are moving slowly. So, I will probably be venturing into the world of card model design. The Horch is relatively square. The hood should have rounded edges to make it look somewhat authentic. That will probably be the hardest part of this effort. I think I can do it though.
I started working on a Valentine tank, another not represented by a card model. That is a later era desert tank though. It shall sit on the back burner for a while, along with my M-3 Grants.
Over the weekend I worked on a couple of models seen below. Both models are by Rawan. The first is a Kubelwagon as part of a “kit” which includes a tiger tank recolored in desert colors. I rescaled it from its original 1:100 scale to 1:72 scale. For those not in the know, you can simply divide one denominator by the other to rescale. To make a larger scale print, simply divide the smaller by the larger. Example: 100/72 = 1.39. That is the amount you must increase your image by. But enough of the math lesson.
The vehicle went together easy enough with the main chassis being one “box.” There were few extras except the wheels and the fenders. The rear fenders protrude a bit much but not overly so. The front fenders are a bit skewed. the designer probably should have tapered them, something that I will try tonight,.
The second models are German BMW motorcycles. One with a side car and one without. This was an extremely fiddly model. Again, I rescaled it to 1:72 scale for the build. I couldn’t imagine trying to make the build in 1:100 scale!
I quite like the Kubelwagon. It is a solid piece that is easy to build. Great traits to have when you need a dozen or so for your wargame table. The BMW, I am afraid, is too difficult and fragile for a wargame. I was taking a close look at my motorcycle with the side car and accidentally dropped and broke it. So, I will not pursue those as an option. It is a nice looking model and does go together well, but you have to have a lot of time per vehicle to get them together. I ended up ordering the 11 motorcycle platoon from Plastic Soldier Company. It works out to about $3.50 per bike and sidecar and has the bonus of coming with two riders.
Wargame Vault and all of their affiliates finally have a PDF on sale for $4.99. This was probably the first Medieval Wargame I ever played. I remember setting up those Sheriff of Nottingham figures on the living room floor and fightingout battles. I never had enough cavalry to overcome the archers of Sir Robin.
The game is quite simple in concept. Each hit causes a kill and the front rank of a formation gets to strike. The whole formation counts when determining the victor. I’ve always had a couple of gripes with the game though, minor as they are. First was the way missile fire is handled and its power. The number of figures are cross indexed with a die roll on a chart. There are two possible outcomes separated by just one point. It made archery kind of deterministic. If you only had five figures left and the enemy could do 3 to you at a minimum, well good night Irene. On top of that, archers could often fire twice if they were not contacted by the end of the movement phase. I guess Gary Gygax liked his “shooty” things.
The other issue is the way combat outcomes were handled. I don’t mean casualties. That is pretty straight forward as I mentioned. I mean the process of determining who won and who lost. It was a 5 or 6 step process which involved some multiplication. I don’t think it’s so bad since you rarely dealt with more than about 3 or 4 combats a turn anyway, but it is cumbersome.
It is otherwise a wonderful game and some say it is the game that started the whole DnD craze. You can get it here.
It’s been a while since my last post. It’s been a strange and disappointing year to say the least. To top it off, the holiday blues really hit me this year. There is no underlying reason other than the usual stress that occurs to most of us this time of the year. Anyway, I hope to be back in full swing come the new year. I am be hind a post or three.
One post was the conclusion of the siege game that my son and I played out. Well, my son got bored (he is 9 you know!) and cleaned it up before I could fully play out the rest solo. What I can tell you is that the Orcs managed to clear the lower areas save 1 hero. The tower was fully held by Gandalf and his hobbit protege. The reinforcements arrived at the earliest moment as I rolled a ‘6’ for the check on the first possible turn. On that very same turn, the surviving orc warbands both took a hit and both failed morale checks. I allowed one last warband to come on the field which is where I left it right before cleanup. Even with them coming in on the opposite side of the fort from where the Elves were entering the field, I don’t think they could have accomplished their mission.
I also prmised some picture of my Cracker Line, Langton and Old North State cavalry. Nice figures all of them! I still need to attach flags and then photograph them. In the previous article I moaned about how I miscounted my purchase and would have to buy still a bag or two more. Well, as it turns out, I didn’t miscount at all. One bag of 6 troopers had dropped from the shelf they were on into a box of books below. I only found them on accident while looking for something else. They all have been reprimanded for going AWOL like that but only a reprimand as I need them on the line to fight their Yankee foes.
Finally, I have a post in the works about Twilight of the Sun King, Father Aelred Glidden’s Horse and Musket rules both of which are based on rules by Stephen Simpson appearing in Wargames Illustrated. I’ve constructed my own version which most closely resembles the good Father’s set and includes modifications for most of the black powder periods.
I managed to clear the table of all of my Cracker Line ACW cavalry. The Union now have 3 brigades of 6 stands while the Rebs have 2 brigades, one of 6 and one of 7. I would have sworn I painted up 2 more stands but I can’t find them. I noticed the table in my basement had been bumped and the stands were disturbed but no extra stands could be found on the floor. Guess I need to learn to count. Anyway, I turfed up the stands in the old school style so they match the battle mat well.
I applied a coat of Crystal Clear with out issue. Then I applied a coat if Matte with the dreaded result…THE FOG! As it turns out, applying this stuff in the evening after a warm day is not really a good idea. It is most humid at night and that specifically is what causes the “fog” effect with matte finishes. Like a Romans facing an elephant a cooler head prevails. I simply applied another coat of Crystal Clear and the fog went away. Now, I just need a time where the humidity is relatively low so I can apply the matte finish again. Annoying, since most nights become humid quickly around here and most mornings, the humidity has not burned off by the time I go t work. First world gamer problems, I suppose.
The shininess of the Crystal Clear is not so apparent on 10mm figures. I am still going to hit them with matte finish. Pictures this weekend.
My son and I have been having fun with a LotR siege game. The game pits a small force of 12 elves and a hero against 2 bands of 12 Orcs as well as an Ogre and a small band of goblin archers. If a band of Orcs are eliminated or routed, the a new band comes to battle on the next turn. The ogre and archers are removed from the game if they are killed. The Orc force also has 4 ladders to scale the wall with. The Elves must hold until turn 15, when another force of Elves arrives, ending the unlimited supply of Orcs. At this point, the battle will be fought until turn 20 or until one side is completely routed.
- It takes a full turn to climb a ladder.
- The assaulting player may make an attack at the top if it survives a free shot by a defending character, assuming one is waiting for him at the top of the ladder
- If the assaulting character hits the defender (whether the defender saves or not) he may push his way onto the rampart.
- Ogres may attack the door and will batter it down on a ‘1’.
- Defenders may topple a ladder. On a 3 the ladder is toppled. This number is 1 less for each character on the ladder.
- If a ladder is toppled, the bottom character simply jumps down unhurt. The top character must make a save or die.
Jack managed to eliminate my archers by turn 2. They did, however, kill one of the elves with a lucky shot. The Ogre managed to get to the door but was unable to bash it down before getting hit by a hail of arrows. The ladders were placed on the wall and the Orcs managed to force their way up at one point on the front. Then, the unthinkable happened. It was bedtime. Here are some pictures of the initial assault as well as the action at the end of turn 5.
The castle is by Toshach Miniatures. It is a free 10mm paper model that was enlarged to 1/72 scale. The images were high resolution so enlarging them did not lose any of the clarity. Great little model. The ladders came from Fat Dragon Games Siege Engines set. The images here are seamless so I was able to simply add several lengths together and reduced them to 75%. I then cut two notches so I could hang miniatures on the ladders to make them look like they were scaling the wall. This set is a must have if you want some cheap siege engines including a siege tower and a covered battering ram. I recommend printing them at 75% or maybe even a little less.